I like Zento already coz despite it being an American offshoot, shoyu is house brewed & nama wasabi is served alongside my sushi. The latter alone earns double bonus from me.
I never thought I could ever reconcile with the American brand of modern Japanese. Good California rolls I love yes, but otherwise I didn’t think I could bring myself to stomach fancy pants varietals of the cuisine which I hold in high esteem. And so it was with trepidation when I went Zento.
I ate with an open mind and I went away pretty stoked that I did. The food delivered in spades and thankfully so. At least I enjoyed what I ate, good enough for me to come back and explore the menu further.
The menu’s quite varied and run the gamut from cold & warm appetizers, futomaki, riceless maki, sushi rolls, kushiyaki, entrées (spring chicken anybody?) to desserts so there’s bound to be something for everybody even for the most finicky. I skipped the starters and hot entrées and went straight for the inventive sushi rolls which I was here for anyway.
Mango Sashimi
I had the Mango Sashimi to start. It’s actually a riceless maki taking on a sashimi salad-like nature. Lovely. Think summer gỏi cuốn, with maguro, sake, hamachi, creamy avocado & sweet mango strips wrapped in translucent Vietnamese rice paper and laid on a house honey mustard dressing. This healthy maki pairs smooth avocado against fresh meltingly delicious sashimi and dressing is sweet and lemony. American style Japanese by Indonesian wrapped up in a Vietnamese cloak. Fusion in all sense but it’s right up my alley.
I also chose the Green River Roll which included toro, eel, avocado, and plum paste with dried seaweed flakes outside. I love avocado everything, the toro for its rich mouthfeel and the sweetish plum paste was good compliment to the luxurious maki without being too overwhelming. This maki would have been many notches better if short grain Japanese rice had been used instead of long grain Californian rice. Those rice grains just stubbornly refused to stick together. I’m also wondering where all the eel went.
Volcano is definitely one of the more popular makis rolls at Zento & is Chef’s wife Dynan’s favorite too. It’s a “modern futomaki” stuffed with shrimp tempura, avocado, smoked salmon, crabstick and masago (capelin roe), then deep fried before it’s served with a special dressing of house spicy mayo. Modern yes but nothing new to me though coz I’ve tried Nara’s special maki rolls and they were unexpectedly delicious. (even Sushi Tei serves some exotic makis no?) This maki is pure cholesterol in every crevice, deep fried, prawns, roe, mayo… go figure… but heck I like it for its textural contrast and the judicious use of tangy mayo for that extra piquancy boost.
The Crunchy Spicy Tuna & Avocado handroll is easily my favorite today and is one handroll you’d have never held before. This is a temaki wrapped in soy paper instead of your usual savory seaweed. Soy paper I’ve never for the life of me seen or even heard of, but it sure is the most novel way to overcome lao hong seaweed which in every thinkable way impairs the enjoyment of partaking in sushi. The soy paper is deliciously chewy and a little springy. Though a tad insipid on its own, the piquancy of the tuna fillings and yummilicious crunchiness of the crispy batter all made up for it.
An avant-garde temaki but delectably so. Crunchy, spicy and savory all at once, a really unexpectedly delicious handroll which I’d enjoyed thoroughly if not for the weird long grain Californian rice used but I reluctantly let that slide. Sorry I’m beginning to sound like a broken record but really.
Chef Gunawan Wibisono was a former protégé of both Nobu & Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto and Zento at Dempsey is the first Asian outlet of his renowned restaurant, Zento in Philadelphia, United States. However impressive his portfolio & praises sung, you’d only know if his cuisine is agreeable until you tried them yourself. Proof of the pudding (or sushi) is in the eating & I’d say the food, though not mind-blowing, is pretty interesting and good to eat at Zento. If you are a hard core Japanese purist, this might be not your type of sushi but sometimes it pays to be adventurous and take a step into the unknown. You might just be rewarded with a pleasant surprise.

Zento Contemporary Japanese Cuisine
18B Dempsey Hill
Tel: 6474 0378
Open: (Lunch) 12pm-3pm daily
Sun-Thu (Dinner): 6pm-10pm, 6pm-11pm (Fri, Sat)
















