Chef Nicolas Joanny is not a stranger to his regulars who've previously enjoyed his French fare at the former Intermezzo and Les Saisons. I realize he has a whole portfolio behind him, from working behind 2 and 3 Michelin star restaurants to being selected as private chef to an ex-French Prime Minister. “His style is traditionally French with great usage of products from Provence, no cream just natural jus and emulsion.”
Oh! I like that.
Ok so I am the villain trying to redeem herself.
Lunch commenced on a nice note with a personal-sized baguette each, served warm, with a wedge of butter on the side. Soon after we were served an amuse bouche of Marinated Anchovy with Crispy Biscuit and Onion Confit. I thought this was pretty interesting looking, coz it came as a slice of something which looked like the Chinese salted fish aka kiam he, nonetheless its brininess paired well with a twig of aromatic chervil.
I was quick to note that there is in fact Ibérico ham in one starter choice of Organic Tomato, Ibérico Ham, Mozzarella and Wild Rocket Salad. Chef Joanny was even quicker to incorporate what was once deemed illegal in Singapore into his menu. Spanish Ibérico and Serrano hams have recently been authorized by the AVA of Singapore for import locally. Very coveted as well, it comprises only 5 per cent of the world’s total ham production.
Torn. Torn between The Ham and the also very tantalizing Bavetine Pasta with Seared Hotate Scallop. I chose the latter in the end, with the friend’s assent to share the former as an additional starter. The scallop was napped in a Langoustine Bisque Emulsion and crowned with shavings of Aged Parmiggiano. Though the scallop was a little overcooked, the fulsome emulsion luckily wasn’t fishy like before, in fact it was so flavorsome I was hoping the waiter would come round to offer another loaf of bread for me to clean up the remaining sauce. The bavetine pasta however stole the show in this duet. These flat and narrower-than-tagliatelle ribbon pasta were done superbly al dente and artfully presented alongside with the lone bivalve. I love every swirl and every single morsel of these ribbons.
On the contrary, I thought the Tomato and Ibérico Ham Salad paled in comparison. The Ibérico ham is greatly prized for its rich, savory taste and smooth texture. Perhaps I have yet to learn appreciate the flavor of this delicacy, but I felt the ham was nothing very unique in terms of taste. The ensemble came teamed with a shooter glass of Red Capsicum Espuma. One has no idea what the espuma was doing here, but there was no complaint on my side as it was really wonderful on its own. I like these colored peppers.
I chose the Wild Ocean Trout over Cod simply because the trout is rare in our menus locally. It was a let-down unfortunately not because the fish was overcooked but for the reason its natural sweetness was marred by the overriding salty Crispy Pastilla shield. It was really a pity coz the trout still maintained a peach-orangey hue flesh despite the intense oven-bake; its au naturel taste, rich and luscious, is good enough to stand on its own without any wanton (sic) skin to take precedence over its flavor. If this fish have been slow poached in olive oil, it would be perfect. The flavor of ocean trout is more subdued and less briny than salmon. It has a clean fresh taste sans the fishiness. Lovers of salmon who are weary of the latter’s fishiness will love this alternative.
Luckily the misstep was made up for by the very well Braised Green Cabbage in a Chorizo Clams Emulsion. I really like the soft mushy vegetables that accompanied the fish, boiled to a point they were so moist and soggy yet very delicious altogether. I couldn’t make out any Saffron that the emulsion was supposedly to be infused in though.
The Friend couldn’t resist the starter of a Pan Roasted Duck Foie Gras, Marmalade of Eggplant, Vanilla and Cinnamon Mousse & Balsamico Vinegar, in addition to our shared Tomato Salad. I would leave her to describe her adoration for it herself, but I could tell she enjoyed her liver lots.
Her choice of Roasted French Farm Quail was beautifully laid on a bed of two Foie Gras and Morel Mushroom Ravioli with Sauce Bordelaise. I stole a bit of the bird. It was cooked till tender and needn’t much mastication. I think I would have liked it as much as she did. She was savoring the bird to the very end, bones and all. I was also sure she maxed out on her liver intake today. :)
We both chose the Chocolate Cake with Milk and Chocolate Mousse, Crunchy ‘Croquant’ over the citrus panacotta for dessert. As evident in the almost non-descript chocolate cake, Chef Joanny’s strengths are not so much in sweets, but working within those constraints, he is still capable of producing a very pleasing finish to a meal, its deliciousness given a boost by the rich and very creamy chocolate mousse.
As if a good meal before wasn’t going to induce sleep after, lunch ended comfortably with, strangely, Chamomile Tea and petit fours of Madeleines & Chocolate Pralines.
I’m not an advocate for heavy or intense sauces. I always believe good food with straightforward flavors that have integrity needn't be masked or disguised by any overpowering sauces. That said, I’m quite impressed by Chef Joanny’s flair for using very flavorful emulsions, especially seafood-based ones to combine excellently all the flavors in a dish together.
This meal was overall, much better than the first. But of coz made more enjoyable by lovely company.
For now, that interesting cheese trolley near the entrance beckons.
Nicolas Le Restaurant
35 Keong Saik Road (shifted to 31 Keong Saik Road)
Tel: 6224 2404
Lunch: 12pm-2pm (Mon-Fri)
Dinner: 6.30pm-10pm (Mon-Sat)
(Closed on Sundays)
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